The larvae are the preferred food for the small frogs such as dendrobates and mantellas, fish, and small lizards. The frogs often spit the adults out; this may because of a gas emitted by the adults, which contains a compound called quinine. The adults have a hard exoskeleton, which results in a high chitin content. You would only need 2-3 starter cultures-- they multiply like crazy and the beetles have a long life span. You'll have to wait about 3-4 weeks before harvesting.
As noted above "The female will lay between 300 - 400 eggs with the greatest production within the first week of adulthood" so it is best to start the culture with young adults or use larva that are tuning into adults.

Both the confused and red flour beetles, known as "bran bugs," primarily attack milled grain products, such as flour and cereals. Both adults and larvae feed on grain dust and broken kernels, but not the undamaged whole grain kernels.

Both the confused and red flour beetles are similar in appearance. 3-4mm (1/8 inch) and are flat, shiny, reddish-brown, and elongated. Antennae segments of the confused flour beetle increase in size gradually from the base to the tip to form a club of four segments; in the red flour beetle, the last segments at the tip of the antennae are abruptly larger than the preceding ones, forming a three-segmented club. Also, the confused flour beetle has a straight-sided thorax, while the thorax of the red flour beetle has curved sides. The eggs, larvae, and pupae are similar in both beetles. Eggs are whitish or colourless and microscopic in size, with food particles adhering to the sticky surface. Brown-headed larvae are cream to yellow, slender, and wiry, very similar to mealworms but much smaller reaching a length of 6mm (1/4 inch). Larvae have six legs and two-pointed or forked projections at the last rear body segment. Pupae are white to light brown.

Female beetles each lay 300 to 400 eggs in flour or other foods during a period of five to eight months (greatest production within the first week of adulthood). Within 4 to 10 days, these eggs hatch into slender, cylindrical, white larvae tinged with yellow. The length of the larval period varies from 22 to 60 days; the pupal period is about 8 days. Fully-grown larvae transform to naked pupae, and in a week adults emerge. The life cycle requires 7 to 12 weeks, with adults living for 2 years or more.

Adults are very active, quickly running for cover when disturbed, and can be found either on the surface or deep within the food material. The red flour beetle can fly short distances, whereas the confused flour beetle does not fly. It should be noted that care should be taken to prevent the colony from becoming over populated with adults, as they will become cannibalistic. Overpopulation can encourage the transmission of the protozoan parasite, Adelina tribolii.

If you are going to breed both species, but make sure to keep the species separate!

Temperature Range:

These beetles like to be kept dry and at warm, 73-82°F (23-28°C)

METHOD 1:

What you'll need:
3 plastic containers with lids
plastic pint glass
flour strainer
whole-wheat or whole meal flour
ground up dried Soya beans
powdered Spirulina algae
dried yeast
starter culture

What you'll do:
Cut a hole in the lids, about (2/3) and replace this with aluminium screen, this will allow good ventilation without letting any beetles escape (remember red flour beetles can fly short distances).
Mix 15 parts flour, 5 parts ground up Soya, 2 parts powdered Spirulina algae and 1 part yeast.
Strain the mix to remove any of the larger particles, this makes it easier when you want sort out the beetles, larvae and pupae later on.
Labels the containers as container #1, #2 and #3.
Fill container #1 with about 1 inch (30mm) of the flour mix 
Add 30-40 beetles and replace the lid.
Let container #1 stand for 10 -15 days.
Set up containers #2 and #3 the same as #1, at the same time fill the pint glass with about 1 inch (30mm) of the flour mix.
Strain the contents of container #1; the flour, eggs and the smaller larvae will fall through the strainer leaving behind the larger larvae, pupae and adults.
Place what is left in the strainer into a shallow holder such as a petri dish.
Put this holder onto the mix in container #2, after about 5 minutes most of the adults should have crawled out of the container and into the flour mix.
Use forceps carefully pick out (about a dozen)of the pupae and place them in the pint glass and the rest in container #3.
The larvae that you have can now be fed to your frogs.
Let container #2 stand for 10 -15 days
Let container #3 stand for 16 -20 days.

If you follow this routine you should be able to feed once or twice a week, depending on how much you are feeding from the cultures.
If the number of cultures is not providing enough simply add more containers the schedule until you are happy with the volume.

Take the pint glass and cover with a piece of pantyhose and let it stand for a day or two, then strain to leave newly hatched beetles and some pupae, put the pupae back and feed new beetles to your frogs.
The beetles in the pint glass should not be allowed the get older than a couple of days as the frogs do not take older beetles due to their bitter taste.

Any excess beetles from the pint glass should be used to replenish adult populations in the containers.
Remember to top up the levels of flour mix when they get low.
Replace the flour mix about very 1 – 2 months or production slows down.

METHOD 2
(Gregory J. Sihler)

What you need:
Whole-wheat flour
Regular flour
Brewers yeast
Two strainers.
Two plastic bowls to sift into.
Two large funnels
Two plastic shoeboxes w/out lids (each holds 8 Snapple’s)
16 Snapple bottles w/o lids

What you’ll do:
Blend the 2 parts whole-wheat flour, 2 parts of regular flour 1 part of Brewers yeast and strain the mix. This is so the mixture will sift clean when you harvest.
Use two sets of eight Snapple bottles filled one-half to two thirds of the way with mixture.
Begin by placing 25 to 35 beetles in each bottle of set 1 for a period of two weeks
Strain the mixture and remove all the beetles.
Place them in corresponding bottles of set 2.
Now, you have to play around a little with your timing (your local temp and humidity will impact development), but sometime between one and two weeks after you have removed the beetles from set 1, you should be able to strain those cultures and recover only larvae.
Some of the larvae will be small and fall through the strainer, that's OK.
Strain all eight bottles from set 1 and place all the collected larvae in a separate container that you can then use for that week to feed the frogs.
Make sure that your collection bottle has enough mixture to support all the larvae.
Now, strain set 2 and put the beetles back in set 1. 
Again, you will need to experiment with your timing.
Strain all the cultures with the beetles and larvae and put them in a strainer, the larvae and small beetles will squirm their way through, leaving behind the beetles and the larvae that have begun to pupate. 
Place a second strainer of the same type under the first they spoon together nicely. Now, mostly larvae will emerge from the second strainer.
Set on a counter and periodically check and collect the larvae during that day.
If you use a spoon you can easily collect the beetles that are climbing on the mesh of the strainers and begin to put them back into your culture bottles while waiting for the larvae to strain.

It is really all timing, once you figure it out you will be able to harvest only larvae from your cultures while the beetles are laying eggs in your second one.
There is about a one-week window in which you can harvest the larvae before they start to pupate.
This is after the beetles have been removed for at least one week.

To Feed:

Strain some of the media to remove the larva and adults. Then the larva and adults are placed into a shallow container such as a petri dish or a film canister that has been cut down to about 1/3 of the original height. Place the container right side up back into the culture and allow the adults to crawl out of the container and back into the media. After about 5 minutes most of the adults should have crawled out of the container. Place the larva with calcium powder in a container and cover them with the powder. Then, place the larva into the tank.
If you want to feed young beetles, try using a plastic pint glass to control the age of the beetles that you feed to your frogs - see Method 1.

Housekeeping:

Note: Do not use any solid lid because these guys need good ventilation. Flour beetles produce a gas that's lethal to them when there's poor ventilation.